Theobroma (BKC, Mumbai)

Every once in a while a place comes along that restores my wavering faith in continental café culture in Bombay. One might say a glimmer of light in the dark sooty mine of the city’s restaurants. Theobroma in BKC (literally “Food of the Gods”) is every bit that place.

The BKC venture is a chic little joint inside The Capital building. The place is simple with white walls and tables as well as marble flooring. In short, it has a reassuringly clean and pleasant café ambience.

I have previously been criticised for paying too little attention to the food in the places I review, so let me turn my attention to that.

The Oaty Apple Breakfast Lassi was a joy. Instinctively, I was concerned about mixing acidic fruit juice with yoghurt (visions of a curdled white mess ran through my mind), but this drink was expertly created. Little nibbles of apple pieces and rolled oats gave the plain lassi a new dimension and the use of honey (over sugar) was appreciated.

The Plant Burger was excellent (4.5/5). The balsamic roasted peppers were well cooked and flavourful. The finely chopped mushrooms added an almost meaty layer to the dish. The tzatziki sauce was sublime, not too sharp, or heavy on the garlic. Even the bun, delightfully soft, showed that Theobroma has not failed to overlook any detail.
The fries were crisp, perhaps double cooked, and seasoned with a mild chilli paprika dust. Even the small ramekin of coleslaw looked and tasted homemade.

The slice of orange cake at 50 INR was an inexpensive way to end the meal. My only complaint was the orange cream centre which had a slightly synthetic note to it, but there was no doubting the freshness or the softness of the sponge.

The service was excellent, hyper-attentive (maybe even fussy) and exceedingly friendly. The waiter seemed to have good knowledge of the dishes, which is a rare and commendable skill in the city.

Overall, Theobroma has really gone the extra mile to think about the type of ingredients used and how each dish comes together. Even the Viennoiserie I had tried on another occasion were pretty decent. This is out of the box for a city that so often disappoints and overcharges for this type of cuisine.

Bravo!

p.s I would order food for delivery from here, but sadly no one ever answers the number given on the website. For this and the broken A/C, a 5* star rating would be amiss.

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